Once you are past Khambachen the trees stop and it becomes rock, moraine and ice. We walked beside the glacier for hours. It is bleak in the best possible way. Altitude was starting to be noticeable for me here so I was glad we had taken the rest day at Ghunsa. The lodge at Lhonak is very simple, be prepared for that.
The villages on the southern route are further apart than I expected and some days were seven or eight hours. Yamphudin is the last real settlement before things get remote. Once past it the trail climbs steadily and the scenery opens up. If you are choosing between north and south, the south is quieter but the north gives you the bigger single view.
Flight to Bhadrapur, bus to Ilam through tea plantations, then a jeep to the trailhead on a road I would rather not describe. It takes days before you even start walking. But that is the point. By the time you are on the trail you are properly far from everything. Very few teahouses, very few people, and mountains that almost nobody photographs.
SL
Sandra LindgrenApril 2026
The southern approach through Yamphudin and Tortong is greener and feels wilder than I expected, with proper forest before you break out above the treeline. Ramche is a beautiful spot and the walk up towards Oktang with Kanchenjunga south face ahead is superb. Nabaraj managed the food carefully on this section because supplies get thin, and we never went short.
HM
Hugo MarchandNovember 2025 · Guided by Nabaraj Simkhada
This is not a trek for someone who wants comfort. Lodges are basic and sometimes full, the days are long, and the weather changes fast. What you get in return is the third highest mountain in the world with hardly anyone else looking at it. The section along the river from Sekathum was slippery and we crossed several suspension bridges that made me concentrate.
IC
Ishaan ChatterjeeNovember 2025
Ghunsa is a proper Tibetan style village and the rest day there is essential, both for acclimatisation and because it is a lovely place to sit still for a day. Nabaraj used the time to walk us up the hillside slowly rather than letting anyone lounge around, which I think is why nobody in our group got sick later. This is a long remote trek and having someone who has done it many times matters.
BD
Bram de VriesOctober 2025 · Guided by Nabaraj Simkhada
The day hike up from Lhonak to the north base camp at Pangpema is the reason you come. Kanchenjunga fills the whole sky and there is nothing between you and it. Prakash timed our start so we arrived before the cloud built up, which mattered because it socked in completely by early afternoon. Twelve days of walking for one hour standing there, and I would do it again.
MO
Michael O'SullivanOctober 2025 · Guided by Prakash Dhungana
Once you are past Khambachen the trees stop and it becomes rock, moraine and ice. We walked beside the glacier for hours. It is bleak in the best possible way. Altitude was starting to be noticeable for me here so I was glad we had taken the rest day at Ghunsa. The lodge at Lhonak is very simple, be prepared for that.
The villages on the southern route are further apart than I expected and some days were seven or eight hours. Yamphudin is the last real settlement before things get remote. Once past it the trail climbs steadily and the scenery opens up. If you are choosing between north and south, the south is quieter but the north gives you the bigger single view.
Flight to Bhadrapur, bus to Ilam through tea plantations, then a jeep to the trailhead on a road I would rather not describe. It takes days before you even start walking. But that is the point. By the time you are on the trail you are properly far from everything. Very few teahouses, very few people, and mountains that almost nobody photographs.
SL
Sandra LindgrenApril 2026
The southern approach through Yamphudin and Tortong is greener and feels wilder than I expected, with proper forest before you break out above the treeline. Ramche is a beautiful spot and the walk up towards Oktang with Kanchenjunga south face ahead is superb. Nabaraj managed the food carefully on this section because supplies get thin, and we never went short.
HM
Hugo MarchandNovember 2025 · Guided by Nabaraj Simkhada
This is not a trek for someone who wants comfort. Lodges are basic and sometimes full, the days are long, and the weather changes fast. What you get in return is the third highest mountain in the world with hardly anyone else looking at it. The section along the river from Sekathum was slippery and we crossed several suspension bridges that made me concentrate.
IC
Ishaan ChatterjeeNovember 2025
Ghunsa is a proper Tibetan style village and the rest day there is essential, both for acclimatisation and because it is a lovely place to sit still for a day. Nabaraj used the time to walk us up the hillside slowly rather than letting anyone lounge around, which I think is why nobody in our group got sick later. This is a long remote trek and having someone who has done it many times matters.
BD
Bram de VriesOctober 2025 · Guided by Nabaraj Simkhada
The day hike up from Lhonak to the north base camp at Pangpema is the reason you come. Kanchenjunga fills the whole sky and there is nothing between you and it. Prakash timed our start so we arrived before the cloud built up, which mattered because it socked in completely by early afternoon. Twelve days of walking for one hour standing there, and I would do it again.
MO
Michael O'SullivanOctober 2025 · Guided by Prakash Dhungana