Mr. Prakash Dhungana

Thorung High Camp is basic and cold and you do not sleep well at 4,925 metres. That is just the deal. What you get for it is a shorter climb to the pass in the morning. Prakash made sure everyone ate properly the night before and drank enough, which sounds obvious but at altitude you stop feeling hungry or thirsty. We all made it over. Good team, well organised, no complaints.

Short does not mean easy. You gain a lot of height quickly and I felt it above Sing Gompa. Prakash kept slowing us down which was annoying at the time and obviously correct in hindsight. The lake itself is startling, deep blue against grey rock with snow around the edges. We had it almost to ourselves outside the August pilgrimage.

I woke up before sunrise at Annapurna Base Camp and my water bottle had frozen a little inside the room. Outside it was completely silent and the peaks turned orange one after another. Prakash pointed out which mountain was which and told us how the sanctuary got its name. I am not a strong trekker and the climb from Deurali was slow for me, but he kept the pace comfortable and never made me feel like I was holding the group back.

Bardiya’s safari felt like being in a nature show. I kept tripping over my camera strap and bumping into bushes, which made me laugh more than once. Koshi Tappu’s wetlands were gorgeous, and I’m still not sure if that bird I photographed was a Sarus Crane or a Purple Swamp Hen, but it looked amazing in my photos. Every morning was quiet and peaceful, perfect for taking pictures. Even though the drives were long, I enjoyed watching the scenery change from forests to open wetlands. Seeing animals along the way like monkeys and deer made the journey fun. Even simple roadside stops felt like little adventures. It was a relaxed and joyful way to experience nature from start to finish.

Everything is camping on this one. No lodges, no menus, no charging your phone. The crew carried tents and cooked for us and we slept at Italian Base Camp and Japanese Camp with glaciers above. French Pass at over five thousand metres was the hardest day of any trek I have done. Prakash and the crew were excellent and the whole thing was properly organised. Do not book this as your first Nepal trek.

We went in mid October and the weather held the whole week. Because this route is low compared to the Everest trails you can walk it slightly outside the main season without much risk. Prakash chose our stops well and made sure we had a rest before the push to the lake. Simple lodges, good food, friendly people. It does not get the attention it deserves.